I have used a light meter, but I’ve yet to find one that’s accurate. You can get a metered prism finder, but I like the waist-level finder.
Curiously, since getting it I’ve slowed down using my digital cameras also. That aside, there’s something about the way this camera feels and works that begs you to slow down and think before you even start taking the photo. A roll costs around £5 to buy and £12 to process. With the 6×6 format you get 12 shots on a roll of 120 film. The darkslide 2: Think about what you are going to photograph The back knows whether the film is wound on or not, so you can swap backs while shooting without ever taking an accidental double exposure or wasting a frame. With the darkslide in, you can take the back off even when there’s a film in it. Thanks to interlocks, you can’t take a back off the camera without a darkslide in it. The shutter is cocked and you are ready to go. Thread the film, close and mount the back, wind it on until it stops automatically at the first frame. 1: Load your filmĮasy as long as you get the film the right way around. Once you’ve got a set of parts that work, using the camera is a joy. These old cameras are complex they all need mending now and again. I’ve had Leica’s, Contaxes and Rolleiflexes go wrong. On my dodgy lens this only works every other time you wind on again much faffing getting it cocked in multiple exposure mode.Īre Bronica’s unreliable? In my experience, yes, but then any old camera is. Cranking the winder cocks the shutter, which is in the lens. Fortunately you can get reasonably cheap bodies and now I’ve got one that works.Īnd one of my two lenses (an 80mm 2.8) has a dodgy shutter coupling. This locks the shutter up and you have to faff around trying to cock the shutter in multiple exposure mode. On my dodgy SQ-A body you can keep turning the winder. Normally the winder stops when shutter is cocked and the film is advanced.
I’ve got one body where the winder slips. Some of the components won’t work and you will need to swap them out. And that’s a good thing, because when some of the components don’t work you can swap them out. I wanted square format, something solid, with a decent range of decent lenses, and not too ancient.īronica SQ-A without speed grip. Hasselbald, Mamiya, Contax, Pentax all too expensive. I wanted a new toy, so I decided to give 120 another chance.
#Bronica sq speedgrip manual#
I'd love to be able to find a manual for this prism, but I don't even know what it is. There's just one big silver button which seems to activate the meter, and then a switch on the shutter speed dial, the purpose of which I cannot discern. As far as I can see, there's no way to turn it off.
I Googled, and found a few people talking about needing to turn the prism off when not in use. I guess I got lucky, because the prism I got seems to meter just fine! However, after being on the camera for a couple of weeks, it drained my batteries. I noticed that an AE prism with a "non-functioning meter" was listed cheaper than a non-AE prism, so I bought that. I couldn't afford a metered prism, but figured that wasn't a huge deal, as I could use another camera or an old Weston meter I got recently. So I went back to KEH to see what they had. I have a lot to learn about it! Recently, I decided I wanted an eye-level prism, mostly to be able to focus accurately and compose at the same time (as opposed to using the spring-loaded diopter in the WLF), but also because it's nice to have a laterally correct image. My first MF camera, a Bronica SQ-Ai, was purchased late last year from KEH. I posted at APUG, but thus far no response: Not a Pentax question, but I'm hoping someone here will have some insight.
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